Bharli Vangi

The dish and how it is eaten

Bharli means stuffed and vangi means brinjal, and this is one of the classic vegetable dishes of Maharashtra, cooked for festive meals as well as ordinary lunches. Recipes differ by region. In Pune and on the Deccan plateau, sweet-sour goda masala gives the warm, gently aromatic version offered here. Around Kolhapur, kanda lasun masala gives a hotter, redder result, and coastal and Konkan cooks may use more coconut. Small round brinjals are the usual choice, and some families cook them with potatoes in the pot or almost dry, with no real gravy at all.

The stuffing and the slow cook

Three things decide this dish. First, the brinjals must be small and young, with glossy skin and few seeds. Second, the peanut, sesame and khobra need to be roasted slowly and fully, since a raw nutty taste will carry through to the plate. Third, the heat stays low. Brinjals cooked too fast split and leak their stuffing, and the outside collapses before the core softens. Frying them first gives them a skin that protects the flesh, and the covered simmer that follows does the rest. Keep the lid closed and turn them only with a soft spoon. Press the filling in firmly, but do not overstuff or the cross cuts will tear open.

Common mistakes and their rescues

If the masala catches on the bottom during the simmer, take the pan off the heat, lift the brinjals out, loosen the base with hot water and scrape up only what comes away easily. Leave anything burnt behind. A bitter brinjal is usually an old one with many seeds; a little more jaggery helps, but it pays to pick well at the shop. If the gravy looks thin at the end, take off the lid and cook for 5 minutes on medium, shaking the pan rather than stirring. If it tastes flat, a little extra tamarind and salt usually does more than extra spice. Brinjals that have fallen apart still taste right, so mash them lightly into the gravy and call it a bharit-style dish.

Substitutions and a lighter version

Goda masala is the Maharashtrian spice blend with roasted coconut, sesame and stone flower, and it is sold at most Indian grocers. If you have none, garam masala with a pinch of cinnamon and clove and a little more roasted coconut makes an acceptable substitute, though you lose the distinctive smoky note. Kanda lasun masala is a fair swap too; use less, since it is hotter, and leave out the chilli powder. Fresh coconut can replace khobra, but toast it for longer. If you cannot find small brinjals, use the slim long kind, cut in 3-inch lengths and slit lengthwise. To lighten the dish, cut the oil to 2 tablespoons, halve the peanuts, and cook in a non-stick pan with the lid on; the gravy will be less glossy, though still good. Hing often contains wheat flour, and goda masala blends vary, which is why this recipe is not tagged gluten-free.

Serving it

Jowar or bajra bhakri, the kind served with pithla, is the classic partner, and its slightly dry, earthy bite suits a rich gravy. Chapatis, multigrain roti or thalipeeth also work. Masale bhat is the traditional choice at weddings and on feast days, while plain rice and a thin varan make a simpler meal. A plain koshimbir salad of cucumber and tomato, or a bowl of curd for those not keeping it vegan, balances the nuts and spice.

Storing and reheating

This is a good make-ahead dish because the masala soaks further into the brinjals overnight. Cool and refrigerate within two hours, and it will keep in a closed container for up to 3 days. Reheat gently in a wide pan with a splash of hot water on low heat, turning the brinjals carefully so they do not break, until bubbling. The stuffing paste can be made in advance and kept for 3 days in the fridge, or frozen for a month in small portions. Cooked brinjals turn watery and spongy after freezing, so avoid that.